IssBe<l  May  11,  IWT 

A^   iWS.  DEPARTMHNT  OF  AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY.— BULLETIN  No.  98,. 

A.    1)      MII.VIN,    OlIKFOI     HUREAI', 


NVESTIGATIONS  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE 
AND  CURING  OF  CHEESE. 


VII.-DIRECTIONS   FOR  MAKING   THE 
CAMEMBERT  TYPE  OF  CHEESE. 


ujsmnos 


BY 

THEODORE  W.  ISSAJEFF, 

Expert  Cheesemaker,  Dairy  IJHz'iswn. 


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WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFI-ICE. 
1Q07. 


Issued  May  11,  1907. 

U.  S.  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY.— Bulletin  No.  98. 

A.  11.  MKl.VIN,  Chief  oi  Bureau. 


INVESTIGATIONS  IN  THE  MANUFACTURE 
AND  CURING  OF  CHEESE. 


VIl.-DIRECTlONS   FOR  MAKING   THE 
CAMEMBERT  TYPE  OF  CHEESE. 


BY 


THEODORE  W.  ISSAJEFF, 

Expert  Cheesemaker,  Dairy  Division. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT   PRINTING   OFFICE. 

1907. 


BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY. 


Chief:  A.  D,  Melvin. 
Assistant  Chief:  A.  M.  Farrfngton. 
Chief  Clerk:  E.  B.  Jonks. 

Biochemic  Division:  Marion  Dorsi:t,  chief;  James  A.  Emery,  assistant  chief. 
Dairy  Division:  Ed.  H.  Webster,  chief;  C.  B.  Lane,  assistant  chief. 
Inspection  Division:  Rice  P.  Steduom,  chief;  Morris  Wooden,  assistant  chief. 
Pathological  Division:  John  R.  Mohler,  chief;    Henry  J.  Washburn,   assistant 
chief. 

Quarantine  Division:  Richard  W.  Hickman,  chief. 

Division  of  Zoology:  B.  H.  Ransom,  chief. 

Experiment  Station:  E.  C.  Schroeder,  superintendent;  W.  E.  Cotton,  assistant. 

Animal  Husbandman:  Geokge  M.  Rommel. 

Editor:  James  M.  Piceens. 


DAIRY    DIVISION. 
Chief:  Ed.  H.  Webster. 
Assistant  Chief:  C.  B.  Lane. 
Assistant:  Wm.  Hart  Dexter. 

scientific  staff. 

Market  milk  investigation!^:  C.  B.  Lane,  assistant  chief,  in  charge;  R.  H.  Shaw, 
chemist;  George  M.  Whitaker,  Ellis  M.  Santee,  IvanC.  Weld,  A.  E.  Perkins, 
assistants. 

Butter  investigations:  C.  E.  Gray,  assistant  dairyman,  in  charge;  C.  W.  Fryhofer, 
assistant;  E.  A.  McDonald,  W.  J.  Credicott,  market  inspectors. 

Cheese  investigations:  C.  F.  Doane,  assistant  dairyman,  in  charge.  American  varie- 
ties: John  L.  Sammis,  chemist;  J.  W.  Moore,  expert  maker.  European  varieties: 
Charles  Thom,  mycologist;  Arthur  W.   Dox,  chemitt;  T.  W.  Issajeff,  expert  maker. 

Southern  dairy  investigations:  B.  H.  Rawl,  assistant  dairyman,  in  charge;  Duncan 
Stuart,  J.  A.  Conover,  S.  E.  Barnes,  J.  W.  Ridgeway,  J.  E.  Dorman,  T.  E.  Wood- 
ward, J.  C.  Kendall,  assistants. 

Building  and  management  investigations:  B.  D.  White,  expert  in  charge;  K.  E. 
Parks,  architect. 

Dairy  laboratories:  L.  A.  Rogers,  bacteriological  chemist,  in  charge. 

INSPECTION   staff. 

Renovated  butter  factories:  M.  W.  Lang,  510  Northwestern  Building,  Chicago,  111., 
in  charge. 

Renovated  butter  markets:  Levi  Wells,  Laceyville,  Pa.,  in  charge. 

Inspectors:  Robert  McAdam,  510  Northwestern  Building,  Chicago,  HI.;  George  M. 
Whitaker,  Washington,  D.  C. ;  E.  A.  McDonald,  Seattle,  Wash. 

Deputy  inspectors:  S.  B.  Willis,  Boston,  Mass.;  R.  A.  McBride,  J.  H.  Barrett,  6 
Harrison  street,  New  York,  N.  Y.;  H.  P.  Olsen.  St.  Paul,  Minn. 

2 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL. 


U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 

Bureau  of  Animal  Industry, 

Was/dngton,  D.  C,  March  £2,  1907. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith,  and  to  recommend  for 
publication  as  Bulletin  No.  98  of  this  Bureau,  a  paper  by  Theodore  W. 
Issajeff,  giving  directions  for  making  the  Camembert  type  of  cheese. 
This  paper  is  based  upon  results  of  the  investigations  in  the  manu- 
facture of  European  varieties  of  soft  cheese  which  have  been  in  prog- 
ress for  some  time  at  the  Storrs  (Conn.)  Agricultural  Experiment 
Station  by  cooperation  between  that  station  and  the  Dairy  Division  of 
this  Bureau,  the  author  being  an  expert  cheese  maker  on  the  coopera- 
tive staff. 

Readers  who  may  desire  fuller  information  as  to  the  nature  and 
character  of  Camembert  and  other  soft  cheeses,  the  molds  used  in 
their  ripening,  the  methods  followed  in  their  manufacture  in  Europe, 
etc.,  are  referred  to  the  following  publications  of  the  Bureau:  Bulletin 
No.  71,  "The  Camembert  Type  of  Soft  Cheese  in  the  United  States;" 
Bulletin  No.  82,  "Fungi  in  Cheese  Ripening:  Camembert  and  Roque- 
fort," and  an  article  oh  "Soft-Cheese  Studies  in  Europe"  in  the 
Twenty-second  Annual  Report  (for  1906). 

Respectfully,  A.  D.  Melvin, 

Chief  of  Bureau. 
Hon.  James  Wilson, 

/Secretary  of  Agriculture. 


INTRODUCTION. 


For  the  past  three  years  cooperative  experiments  have  been  con- 
ducted between  the  Storrs  (Conn.)  Agricultural  Experiment  Station 
and  the  Dairy  Division  of  the  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry,  United 
States  Department  of  Agriculture,  for  the  purpose  of  determining  the 
methods  of  making  and  ripening  cheese  of  the  Camembert  tj'pe.  This 
is  one  of  the  varieties  of  European  soft  cheese  imported  in  considerable 
quantities  and  considered  by  many  a  great  delicac}'.  There  is  a  growing 
demand  for  cheese  of  this  type  in  the  United  States,  and  there  is  no 
reason  why  the  industry  of  making  this  cheese  should  not  be  developed 
in  this  country.  The  directions  given  in  this  bulletin  are  not  mere 
compilations,  but  are  founded  upon  research  work  covering  a  period 
of  more  than  three  years.  The  Storrs  Station  is  now  prepared  to 
assist  factories  and  individuals  in  undertaking  the  manufacture  of  this 
type  of  cheese. 

.  L.  A.  Clinton, 
Direct(/r  Storrs' Agricultural  Experiment  Station. 


CONTENTS. 


Vage. 

The  cheese-making  plant 7 

Equipment  of  the  making  room 7 

Equipment  of  ripening  rooms 8 

Construction  and  condition  of  the  rooms 9 

Protection  against  insects 11 

The  making  of  the  cheese 11 

The  milk 11 

Ripening  the  milk 11 

The  starter 12 

Adding  the  rennet 12 

Cutting  the  curd 12 

Dipping  the  curd  into  the  forms 13 

Inoculation  and  turning 14 

Salting 15 

Making  cheese  from  uncut  curd .- 16 

The  use  of  the  low  forms 16 

Ripening  the  cheese 17 

Factory  methods 18 

Various  defects  of  cheese , 18 

Estimated  equipment  for  a  factory 20 

5 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Page. 

Fig.    1 .  Titration  apparatus  for  determining  acidity  of  milk 7 

2.  Curd  knife  and  dipper 8 

3.  Large  and  small  hoops,  or  forms 8 

4.  Draining  board 9 

5.  Draining  mat 9 

6.  Cane  bottom  for  ripening  cheese 10 

7.  Cheese  boards,  mats,  and  forms  as  arranged  for  draining  cheese 14 

8.  Method  of  turning  cheese 15 

9.  Salting  the  cheese 15 

10.  Gassy  curd 19 

6 


DIRECTIONS  FOR  MAKING  THE  CAMEMBERT  TYPE  OF 

CHEESE. 


THE  CHEESE-MAKING  PLANT. 

The  first  problem  to  be  considered  is  the  construction  of  a  suitable 
plant  in  which  the  cheese  is  to  be  made  and  ripened.  The  description 
which  is  here  giv'en  is  not  of  the  plant  in  which 
our  experiments  have  been  carried  out,  but  is 
rather  of  one  which  is  designed  to  meet  certain 
requirements  discussed  later,  and  which  expe- 
rience has  taught  us  would  be  most  satisfac- 
tory. 

The  plant  suggested  consists  of  three  rooms, 
the  first  of  which  is  used  for  the  making  of  the 
cheese,  the  second  for  growing  the  molds  and 
for  the  first  stage  of  ripening,  and  the  third  for 
the  subsequent  and  final  ripening.  The  size  of 
these  rooms  depends  chiefly  upon  the  quantity 
of  milk  which  is  to  be  handled. 

EQUIPMENT  OF  THE  MAKING  ROOM. 

Vats. — For  the  making  of  Camembert  cheese 
an  ordinary  flat-bottomed  cheese  vat  is  just  as 
satisfactory  as  the  basins  used  in  France. 

Apparatus  for  determining  ripeness. — A  Mar- 
shall rennet  test  is  useful  in  testing  the  ripeness 
of  the  milk.  A  more  convenient  and  accurate 
apparatus,  however,  is  one  for  determining  the 
percentage  of  acidity,  and  consists  of  a  burette 
connected  by  a  siphon  to  a  large  bottle  of  a 
one-tenth  normal  solution  of  caustic  soda  (N/10 
NaOH).     (Fig.  1.) 

Curd  hnife  and  dipper. — A  curd  knife  of  the 
ordinary  type  must  be  provided  in  case  the  curd  is  to  be  cut,  and  also 
a  dipper  similar  in  shape  to  a  soup  ladle.     (Fig.  2.) 

7 


Fig.  1.— Titration  apparatus 
for  determining  acidity  of 
milk. 


8 


DIRECTIONS    FOR   MAKING    CAMEMBERT    CHEESE. 


Fig.  2. — Curd  knife  and  dipper. 


Draining  table. — The  draining  table,  one  end  of  which  is  a  little 

higher  than  the  other,  is  placed  near  the  vat.    The  top  of  this  table 

slopes  somewhat  from  both  sides  toward  the  center.     It  is  best  to  have 

the  table  on  wheels,  so  that  it  will  be  movable. 

Hoops,  m' forms. — The  hoops  in  which  the  cheeses  are  made  are  cylin- 
drical in  shape  and 
open  at  both  ends. 
They  are  made  of 
galvanized  iron,  are 
5  inches  in  height 
and 4  inches  in  diam- 
eter, and  are  provided  with  three  rows  of  holes  about  1  inch  apart. 

The  size  of  the  holes  is  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch,  and  there  are 

thirteen  holes  in  a  row.     A  second  set  of  hoops,  2  inches  in  height, 

with  one  row  of  holes  around  the  center,  is  made  with  a  slightly  larger 

diameter  (one-eighth  of  an  inch  larger  is  sufficient),  so  that  they  will 

slide  freely  over  the  others.     (Fig.  3.) 

Boards. — The  draining  boards  are  made  of   whitewood   and   have 

parallel  grooves  on  both  sides  to 

enable   the   whey   to    run    oflf 

readily.      These    grooves    are 

about  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch 

wide  and  of  the  same  depth,  and 

are  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch 

apart.     The  boards  are  about 

14  by  15  inches  in  size,  or  large 

enough  to  hold  nine  cheeses  of 

common  size.     (Fig.  4.) 

i¥«^,s.— Square  mats   of  the 

same  size  are  needed  to  cover 

these  boards.     They  are  pref- 
erably   made   of  fine   bamboo 

strips,  closely  fastened  together 

with   strings.     They  resemble 

somewhat    the    bamboo    strip 

curtains.     (Fig.  5.) 
Cane  hottoms. — Cane  bottoms 

are  often  used.     They  are  of  the 

same  size  as  the  draining  boards 

and  are  used  as  supports  for  the  cheese  during  the  ripening  process. 

(Fig.  6.) 

EQUIPMENT   OF   RIPENING    ROOMS. 

The  equipment  necessary  for  the  ripening  rooms  consists  of  shelves 
on  which  the  cheeses  rest  and  means  for  controlling  at  all  times  the 


Fig.  3.— Large  and  small  hoops,  or  forms. 


CONSTRUCTION    AND    CONDITION    OF   MAKING    ROOM. 


temperature  and  moisture  of  the  rooms.  The  shelves  are  made  of 
hardwood  and  are  about  5  inches  apart,  so  as  to  allow  the  boards  and 
cheeses  to  slide  in  and 
out  freel3\  They  are 
built  from  floor  to  ceil- 
ing in  order  to  econo- 
mize space.  Steam  and 
brine  pipes  will  best  fur- 
nish the  means  of  con- 
trolling temperature 
and  moisture. 

CONSTRUCTION  AND  CON- 
DITION OF  THE  ROOMS. 

Making  room. — One  of 
the  first  requirements  is 
that  of  absolute  cleanli- 
ness. The  floor  should 
be  of  cement  or  some 
other  water-tight  mate- 
rial, and  should  slope 
toward  a  drain-pipe,  so 


Fig.  4.— Draining  board. 


that  it  can  be  readih'  flushed  with  water. 


Fig.  5.— Draining  mat. 


The  walls  can  be  made  of 
wood  or  brick,  prefer- 
ably the  latter,  and 
should  be  covered  with 
whitewash  or  enamel 
paint.  This  coat  of 
whitewash  or  paint 
should  be  renewed  from 
time  to  time  after  clean- 
ing off  an}^  dirt  that 
may  accumulate,  and 
also  for  the  purpose  of 
disinfecting  the  room  if 
this  should  be  needed. 

The  room  must  be  fre- 
quently ventilated,  no 
matter  what  the  tem- 
perature of  the  outside 
air  may  be,  and  3'et  it  is 
to  be  maintained  at  a 
constant     temperature. 


For  this  purpose  steam  should  be  provided,  as  stoves  or  other  heat- 
ing arrangements  do  not  warm  the  room  as  quickly  or  satisfactorily. 
29778— No.  98— 07m 2 


10 


DIRECTIONS    FOR   MAKING    OAMEMBERT    CHEESE. 


An  ordinary  dairy  sink,  with  water  and  steam  taps,  is  necessary. 
The  steam  pipe  should  connect  with  the  water  pipe  by  a  tee,  so  that 
the  water  can  be  heated  to  any  desired  temperature. 

As  the  tools  can  not  be  properly  cleaned  with  hot  water  alone,  it  is 
advisable  to  provide  a  steam  chest  or  sterilizer  of  some  sort  where 
they  can  be  left  in  contact  with  live  steam.  A  strong  wooden  box, 
lined  with  galvanized  iron  and  having  a  valve  at  the  bottom  as  an 
outlet  for  condensed  water,  has  been  found  to  be  verj^  satisfactory. 
It  is  provided  with  a  strong  cover,  which  can  be  fastened  to  the  box 
with  clamps.  The  whole  arrangement  should  be  made  so  as  to  stand 
a  slight  pressure.     This  box  is  especially  useful  for  sterilizing  the 

boards  and  cane 
bottoms  used  to 
hold  the  cheeses 
during  the  ripening 
process. 

First  ripening 
room. — The  first 
ripening  room 
must  be  nearly 
saturated  with 
moisture  and  kept 
at  a  temperature 
of  about  60°  to  62° 
F.,  as  these  condi- 
tions are  most  suit- 
able for  the  proper 
growth  of  mold. 

Second  ripening 
room,.  — Thi  s  room 
is  to  be  kept  some- 
what cooler  (56°  to 
60°  F.),  as  the  ripening  proceeds  more  uniformly  at  this  temperature. 
Here  it  is  not  necessar}"  to  keep  such  a  high  percentage  of  moisture 
as  in  the  first  room.  There  should  be  just  enough  to  keep  the  cheeses 
from  drying  out.  The  walls  and  floors  of  both  of  these  rooms  should 
be  like  those  of  the  making  room — that  is,  eas}'  to  clean. 

Both  of  the  ripening  rooms  should  be  well  ventilated  and  steam 
heated.  The  steam  can  be  used  not  only  for  heating,  but  also  for 
maintaining  the  desired  degree  of  moisture.  In  summer  the  outside 
heat  would  raise  the  temperature  of  the  rooms,  causing  the  cheese  to 
ripen  too  fast  and  not  uniformly.  For  that  reason  some  means  of 
cooling  must  be  provided. 


Fig.  6. — Cane  bottom  for  ripening  cheese. 


THE   MAKING    OF   THE    CHEESE.  11 

PROTECTION    AGAINST   INSECTS. 

A  very  important  item  is  that  of  protecting  the  cheese  against  flies 
and  other  injurious  insects.  The  outer  doorways,  the  windows,  and 
every  other  possible  opening  should  be  carefully  guarded  by  screens 
with  as  fine  a  mesh  as  can  be  procured,  as  the  smallest  flies  produce 
the  most  trouble.  If  this  is  not  carefully  attended  to  the  cheeses  are 
sure  to  become  infested  with  fly  maggots.  In  the  ripening  rooms 
protection  against  these  insects  can  be  secured  to  a  considerable  extent 
b}^  keeping  the  rooms  dark,  for  flies  will  not  readily  breed  and  mul- 
tiply in  a  dark  place. 

THE  MAKING  OF  THE  CHEESE. 
THE  MILK. 

The  milk  used  in  making  Camembert  cheese  should  be  of  the  best 
quality — that  is,  clean  and  fresh.  Two  quarts  of  milk  are  required 
for  each  cheese. 

RIPENING   THE    MILK. 

The  milk  is  poured  into  the  vat  and  by  the  aid  of  water  and  steam 
is  heated  to  85°  F.,  this  being  the  temperature  best  suited  for  the 
growth  of  the  lactic  bacteria.  A  starter  is  added,  the  amount  depend- 
ing upon  its  strength  and  capacity  for  developing  lactic  acid,  usually 
3  quarts  of  a  medium  starter  for  ev^ery  100  pounds  of  milk.  After 
adding  the  starter  the  milk  is  allowed  to  stand  until  the  desired  degree 
of  acidity  is  reached. 

This  method  of  ripening  the  milk  before  setting  is  not  the  rule  in 
France,  where  they  generally  set  the  milk  at  a  very  low  degree  of 
acidity  without  any  attempt  at  previous  ripening  of  the  milk.  The 
acid,  however,  develops  later  in  the  curd  while  the  cheese  is  draining. 
In  our  experience  serious  trouble  from  gas  has  been  avoided  by  ripen- 
ing the  milk  before  setting.  Especially  during  the  hot  weather  it  is 
advisable  to  use  a  higher  degree  of  acidit5^  The  percentage  of  acidity 
used  by  us  is  rather  high  (about  0.35  per  cent).  This  is,  however, 
partly  because  of  the  low  temperature  of  the  room  in  which  our 
experiments  are  made.  In  France  the  making  rooms  are  generally 
kept  quite  warm,  and  the  cheese  will  naturally  drain  faster  there  and 
develop  the  acid  in  the  curd. 

Several  experiments  have  shown  us  that  it  is  not  entirely  necessary 
to  use  such  a  high  degree  of  acidity  to  secure  a  properly  drained  cheese, 
but  by  using  a  starter  which  will  work  rapidly  after  the  cheese  is  dipped 
very  satisfactoiy  results  have  been  obtained.  The  milk  in  such  cases 
was  ripened  only  to  about  0.2  to  0.25  per  cent  of  acid. 


12  DIRECTIONS    FOR   MAKING    CAMEMBERT    CHEESE. 

THE   STARTER. 

It  is  best  to  use  a  starter  which  is  a  pure  culture  of  lactic  organisms, 
prepared  by  inoculating  sterilized  milk  with  these  bacteria.  In  cheese 
and  butter  making  some  homemade  starter  is  generally  used,  such  as 
sour  milk  or  buttermilk.  These  often  give  excellent  results,  but  are 
by  no  means  pure  cultures  and  can  not  be  depended  upon;  in  fact,  they 
sometimes  cause  considerable  trouble. 

The  various  commercial  starters  have  been  used  here  and  have  pro- 
duced excellent  cheese  of  a  mild  type.  The  one  found  most  satisfac- 
tory, however,  was  prepared  from  a  certain  brand  of  imported  cheese. 
This  cheese  has  a  peculiar  flavor  of  its  own,  which  differs  from  that  of 
any  other  brand.  Experiments  to  produce  this  flavor  have  been  car- 
ried out  here.  After  many  of  these  imported  cheeses  had  been  care- 
fully examined  and  analyzed  a  certain  kind  of  lactic-acid  organism  was 
found  by  the  bacteriologist.  This  organism  was  separated,  and  from 
it  a  pure-culture  starter  prepared,  which  was  used  in  the  making  of 
the  cheese  with  excellent  results.  The  flavor  sought  for  has  been 
produced  repeatedly  with  this  starter.  As  this  bmnd  of  cheese  is 
more  popular  than  almost  an}'  other,  this  starter  is  probably  the  best 
that  can  be  used  in  the  manufacture  of  this  cheese,** 

ADDING   THE   RENNET. 

The  milk  while  ripening  cools  down  unless  carefully  watthed.  If 
this  has  occurred,  it  must  be  brought  back  to  the  original  temperature 
(85^  F.)  before  adding  the  rennet.  At  this  temperature  it  has  been 
found  necessary  to  use  a  curdling  time  of  one  and  one-half  to  two 
hours  to  secure  the  texture  of  the  curd  desired  for  Camembert  cheese. 
The  amount  of  rennet  required  to  curdle  the  milk  in  this  time  is  calcu- 
lated by  means  of  the  Marshall  rennet  test  or  the  titration  apparatus. 

CUTTING   THE  CURD. 

In  Finance  the  method  in  general  use  consists  in  dipping  the  curd 
directly  into  the  forms.  Equally  good  results  in  most  respects,  how- 
ever, have  been  obtained  here  with  the  curd  cut.  In  cutting,  the  curd 
knife  is  passed  through  the  curd  in  the  vat  in  two  directions  at  right 
angles,  thus  producing  vertical  columns  of  curd.  When  the  curd  ha„s 
been  cut  in  this  waj'^  it  drains  faster,  and  for  that  reason  a  lower  degree 
of  acidity  is  used  than  with  the  curd  uncut. 

«  As  soon  as  a  demand  for  this  starter  arises  in  the  trade,  cultures  of  it  will  be  fur- 
nished to  such  companies  as  regularl}-  supply  starters  for  other  creamery  work. 


CUTTING    THE    CURD    AND    DIPPING    INTO    FORMS.  13 

The  most  satisfactory  acidity  with  cut  curd  has  been  found  to  be 
from  0.3  to  0.35  per  cent.  If  it  is  less,  the  curd  is  likely  to  be  too 
soft;  if  higher,  the  curd  will  drain  too  rapidly,  will  become  hard  and 
compact,  and  will  not  ripen  properly.  The  acidity  is  tested  as  follows: 
A  sample  of  milk  is  taken  with  a  Babcock  pipette  holding  17.6  c.  c. 
and  is  transferred  to  a  glass  or  beaker.  A  few  drops  of  phenolptha- 
lein  are  added  and  N  10  NaOH  is  run  in  from  the  burette,  drop  by 
drop,  until  a  pink  color  just  begins  to  appear.  The  number  of  cubic 
centimeters  of  soda  solution  used,  divided  by  20,  gives  the  percentage 
of  acid  in  the  milk. 

The  higher  the  acidity  of  the  milk  the  less  rennet  it  takes.  In  case 
the  acidity  is  0.3  per  cent,  it  will  take  about  8  to  10  c.  c.  of  the  ordi- 
nary rennet  extract  to  every  100  pounds  of  milk  to  bring  the  curd  to 
the  right  consistency  in  one  and  one-half  to  two  hours.  The  necessary 
amount  of  rennet  is  poured  into  a  glass  of  water  and  then  mixed  thor- 
oughly with  the  milk.  The  milk  is  now  left  to  stand  until  it  has 
coagulated  to  the  proper  consistency.  It  is  impossible  to  describe  any 
test  which  will  show  when  the  curd  is  firm  enough.  This  can  only  be 
ascertained  by  practical  demonstration;  after  a  little  practice  the  maker 
can  generall}'  tell  just  when  the  curd  is  ready  to  cut.  The  curd  of 
Camembert  cheese  is  nuich  firmer  than  that  of  Cheddar  or  Swiss 
cheese. 

After  the  curd  has  been  cut  it  is  stirred  gently  onte  or  twice  with 
the  dipper  to  separate  the  columns  and  hasten  the  separation  of  the 
whey.  Then  it  is  allowed  to  stand  for  about  fifteen  minutes  to  make 
it  a  little  firmer.  The  whev  separates  out  at  the  surface  and  the  bulk 
of  it  is  dipped  off. 

If,  however,  the  curd  is  quite  firm,  less  of  the  loose  whey  is  dipped 
off'.  The  contents  of  the  vat  are  now  stirred  to  insure  uniformit\-, 
otherwise  part  of  the  cheese  would  be  softer  than  the  rest. 

DIPPING   THE    CURD   INTO   THE    FORMS. 

The  next  operation  is  the  dipping.  This  is  done  with  a  ladle  which 
just  fits  into  the  forms.  Place  the  draining  table  near  the  vat,  and 
upon  it  arrange  the  boards,  each  covered  with  a  mat  and  holding  nine 
of  the  high  forms.  Into  each  of  these  forms  a  dipperful  of  curd  is 
placed,  care  being  taken  to  bring  the  dipper  inside  the  forms  in  order 
to  prevent  splashing  and  breaking  the  curd.  After  one  dipperful  is 
placed  in  each  form  the  operation  is  repeated,  the  dipping  continuing 
until  the  fo:ins  are  all  filled  to  the  top. 

After  the  curd  has  all  been  dipped  into  the  hoops  the  latter  are  piled 
up,  together  with  the  boards,  one  upon  the  other.  This  is  done  partly 
to  save  space  and  partly  to  cover  up  the  cheese  and  thus  keep  off  an}' 


14  DIRECTIONS    FOR    MAKING    CAMEMRERT    CHEESE. 

dirt  or  flies  which  otherwise  might  fall  upon  them.     The  top  of  the 
pile  is  then  covered  with  an  extra  board.     (Fig.  7.) 

The  curd  is  now  allowed  to  drain  without  any  artificial  pressure  for 
four  or  live  hours.  At  the  end  of  this  time  it  will  have  shrunk  to 
about  half  the  original  volume  and  will  be  ready  for  inoculation  of 
molds  and  turning. 

INOCULATION   AND    TURNING. 

Although  it  is  not  customary  for  French  cheese  makers  to  inoculate 
Camembert  cheese  with  mold,  we  have  found  it  very  desirable,  lender 
the  conditions  found  in  Normandy  the  cheese  acquires  its  moldy 
covering  rapidlj-  enough  by  accidental  inoculation.  Even  then  unde- 
sirable molds  often 
appear  to  the  injury 
of  the  cheese.  In 
our  experimental 
work  artificial  inoc- 
ulation on  the  day 
of  making  has  been 
necessary  to  secure 
satisfactory  results. 
Where  depend- 
ence is  placed  upon 
accidental  inocula- 
tion undesirable 
molds  often  get  on 
the  cheeses  ahead 
of  the  Camembert 
mold,  the  result  be- 

FiG.  7.— rf^heeso  boards,  mats,  iind  forms  as  armngert  for  draining  cheese,    inp-     pither     R    HOOr 

cheese  or  one  spoiled  entirel}-.  On  the  other  hand,  if  a  cheese  is  inocu- 
lated with  the  Camembert  mold  at  the  outset,  this  will  grow  and  cover 
the  cheese  rapidly,  which  practically  protects  the  cheese  from  the  infec- 
tion of  other  molds.  A  ver}"  good  proof  of  this  statement  is  that  one 
can  almost  always  find  some  other  species  of  molds  on  imported  cheese, 
while  the  molds  found  on  inoculated  cheeses  are  generally  pure  cultures, 
unless  the  culture  with  which  they  were  inoculated  was  of  poor  qualit}'. 
It  is  necessary  that  the  maker  should  know  the  right  mold  when  he  sees  it. 
A  most  satisf actor}"  way  of  inoculating  is  as  follows:  Take  a  small 
jar  with  a  tin  cover  which  has  been  punched  full  of  small  holes,  like 
an  ordinary  pepper  box,  till  it  half  full  with  water,  add  a  piece  of 
moldy  cracker  or  a  piece  of  cheese  with  a  good  growth  of  the  proper 
mold,  and  shake  thoroughly.  The  contents  of  the  jar  are  now  sprinkled 
upon  the  surface  of  each  cheese,  then  the  cheeses  are  turned  and  inocu- 
lated in  the  same  manner  on  the  other  side. 


TURNING    AND    SALTING    THE    CHEESE. 


15 


Another  simple  and  very  convenient  wa}'^  of  inoculation,  especially' 
adapted  to  use  in  large  factories,  consists  in  taking  two  cheeses  well 
covered  with  mold  and  kno(;king  them  together  over  the  hoops.  In 
this  way  enough  spores  drop  upon  the  cheese  to  give  good  results. 

This  inoculation  is  by  the  Penicillium  camemhertt ;  but  a  second 
mold,  Oidhiiii.  lactis, 
seems  to  be  necessary 
for  the  production  of 
iiavor  in  Camembert 
cheese,  as  has  been  in- 
dicated in  a  previous 
paper."  The  latter  is 
mostly  found  in  milk 
and  will  appear  on  the 
cheese  slowly.  To  in- 
sure its  rapid  growth 

.,         ,  ,        .  Fig.  8.— Method  of  turning  cheese. 

the  cheese  may  be  in- 
oculated with  it  also.     The  same  method  of  inoculation  may  be  employed 
as  with  the  other  mold,  except  that  Oidium  Zac^i«  is  grown  in  a  gelatin- 
culture  medium  instead  of  upon  crackers. 

The  cheeses  are  turned,  not  only  to  secure  the  inoculation  of  both 
sides,  but  also  to  prevent  them  from  becoming  too  compact  on  the 
underside  on  account  of  the  greater  pressure  there  and  to  insure  a 

smoother  surface  on  both  sides. 
The  quickest  and  easiest  wa}^  to  turn 
the  cheeses  is  to  cover  the  nine  forms 
with  a  second  mat  and  board.  Place 
one  hand  under  the  lower  board  and 
the  other  over  the  upper,  and  then 
invert.  (Fig.  8.)  If  the  cheeses  thus 
turned  do  not  rest  flat  on  the  bottom 
they  are  straightened  out  by  moving 
the  forms. 

After  turning  and  inoculating,  the 
cheeses  are  left  without  anj'  further 
handling  until  the  next  morning, 
when  they  are  taken  out  of  the  forms  and  salted.  By  this  time  they  have 
shrunk  almost  to  their  linal  size.  In  case  they  are  not  yet  hard  enough 
to  be  safely  handled,  they  are  turned  again  and  left  to  stand  until  they 
are  sufficiently  firm. 

SALTING. 

The  salting  is  done  b}'  taking  two  cheeses  together  and  rolling  the 
edges  and  rubbing  their  surfaces  in  salt.  (Fig.  9.)  The  salt  to  be  used 
should  not  be  too  fine,  as  this  would  produce  oversalting. 


Fig.  9.— Salting  the  ehecse. 


«  Bulletin  No.  82,  Bureau  of  Animal  Industry. 


16  DIRECTIONS    FOR   MAKING    CAMEMBERT    CHEESE. 

After  salting,  the  cheeses  are  placed  upon  dry  boards,  so  that  the 
sides  which  were  previously  at  the  top  will  now  be  at  the  bottom.  The 
next  morning  it  will  be  found  that  all  of  the  salt  has  dissolved,  and 
that  most  of  it  is  diffused  in  the  cheese.  The  cheeses  are  again  trans- 
ferred to  another  dry  board  or  cane  bottom,  after  turning,  and  are 
ready  for  the  ripening  process.  The  reason  for  transferring  them  to 
dry  boards  is  that  a  dry  board  is  less  apt  to  become  covered  with  mold. 

MAKING  CHEESE  FKOM  UNCUT  CURD. 

A  cheese  from  uncut  curd  is  made  somewhat  differently.  Although 
the  cut  curd  drains  more  rapidly,  the  draining  of  the  uncut  curd  can 
be  greatly  facilitated  by  allowing  the  milk  to  become  more  acid  before 
adding  the  rennet. 

In  our  experiments  the  degree  of  acidity  giving  the  most  satisfac- 
tion in  the  uncut  curd  has  been  about  0.40  per  cent.  The  amount  of 
rennet  to  be  added  varies  inversely  as  the  acidity.  When  the  curd 
has  reached  the  proper  consistency,  it  is  dipped  into  the  hoops  in  the 
same  way  as  the  cut  curd,  but  the  operation  should  be  carried  out 
more  slowly.  After  the  forms  have  been  filled  the  cheeses  are  allowed 
to  stand  without  turning  until  the  next  morning.  Thisis  because  the 
successive  dipperfuls  of  uncut  curd  do  not  stick  together  readil}'  at 
first  and  must  be  given  more  time. 

While  turning  the  cheese  the  next  morning  they  are  to  be  inocu- 
lated. They  must  then  be  left  until  the  following  morning,  by  which 
time  thej'^  are  ready  to  be  salted.  After  salting  they  remain  another 
day  in  the  making  room,  making  three  dajs  altogether,  instead  of 
two  as  in  the  case  of  the  cut-curd  cheese. 

In  France  the  cheeses  are  always  made  of  uncut  curd,  but  no  reason 
has  ever  been  given  for  the  practice,  so  far  as  the  writer  knows.  In 
a  series  of  experiments  where  cheeses  were  made  of  the  same  milk 
with  cut  as  well  as  uncut  curd  for  comparison  we  found  that  in  almost 
ev^ery  case  the  uncut-curd  cheese,  even  when  fully  ripe,  did  not  decom- 
pose as  quickly  as  the  cut-curd  cheese.  Other  advantages  are  that 
more  cheese  is  produced  from  the  uncut  curd  from  the  same  amount  of 
milk,  and  the  loss  of  fat  in  the  whey  is  not  so  great. 

THE    USE   OF   THE    LOW    FORMS. 

Both  cut  and  uncut  curd  cheeses  should  be  hard  enough  to  bear 
handling  at  the  time  of  salting,  but  often  the}'  are  not  3^et  hard  enough 
to  retain  their  shape.  In  such  cases  the}'  should  be  put  at  the  time  of 
salting  into  the  low  forms,  where  the}'  remain  until  the  next  morning. 
When  they  can  hold  their  shape  without  the  aid  of  the  forms  they  are 
taken  to  the  ripening  room. 


CONDITIONS    OBSERVED    DURING    RIPENING    PERIOD.  17 

BIFENING  THE  CHEESE. 

The  cheeses  are  removed  to  the  first  ripening  room.  Here  they  are 
placed  on  smootli  boards  upon  shelves.  The  boards  are  of  the  same 
size  as  the  draining  boards,  but  have  a  smooth  surface.  The  cheeses 
remain  on  these  boards  during  the  whole  ripening  period.  Cane 
bottoms  are  frequently  used  and  are  preferable  to  the  boards  for  the 
following  reasons:  When  boards  are  used  the  molds  are  apt  to  grow 
into  the  wood,  causing  the  latter  to  stick  so  tenaciously  that  on  turn- 
ing the  cheeses  over  the  rind  is  torn  off.  On  the  other  hand,  when 
cane  bottoms  are  used  the  mold  can  grow  more  uniformly  on  both 
sides  of  the  cheeses,  and  as  they  do  not  stick  to  the  bottoms  so  tena- 
ciousl}^,  it  is  necessary  to  turn  them  but  once  or  twice  in  the  first 
room,  which  reduces  the  labor  considerabl3\  The  cheeses  resting  on 
boards  must  be  turned  daily. 

During  the  first  week  any  ripening  which  occurs  is  not  noticeable, 
and  the  cheese  remains  in  the  form  of  hard  curd.  The  surface  of  the 
cheese  often  becomes  slightly  slimy,  and  some  change  in  the  color  can 
be  noticed.  Toward  the  end  of  this  first  week  the  mold  can  be  seen 
upon  looking  closely. 

During  the  second  week  the  mold,  when  once  started,  grows  very 
rapidly;  and  in  the  course  of  one  or  two  days  it  covers  the  cheese 
completely,  giving  it  a  snow-white,  cotton-like  appearance.  This 
white  coat  of  mold  turns  to  a  gray  green  within  two  to  four  days, 
and  by  this  time  the  cheese  begin  to  show  actual  ripening.  The 
cheese  first  becomes  soft  just  under  the  coat  of  mold,  and  the  ripen- 
ing proceeds  gradually  toward  the  center.  On  cutting  the  cheese 
open  a  thin  layer  of  softened  curd  can  be  observed  under  the  mold. 
The  texture  of  this  ripened  part  is  cream}-  and  soft,  just  as  the  whole 
cheese  will  be  at  the  time  of  complete  ripening. 

If  the  cheeses  remain  upon  the  shelves  in  the  ripening  room  under 
proper  conditions,  as  they  often  do  in  France,  they  will  ripen  com- 
pletely. But  under  our  conditions,  where  the  air  is  dryer,  we  have 
found  it  necessary  to  wrap  the  cheeses  during  the  second  week  in 
parchment  paper  or  tin  foil.  This  prevents  evaporation  and  harden- 
ing, checks  the  growth  of  mold,  and  promotes  the  growth  of  the 
other  organisms,  thus  hastening  the  ripening.  When  the  cheeses 
appear  dry  and  tend  to  become  hard,  tin  foil  seems  to  give  the 
better  result,  but  in  the  factories  in  the  trade  parchment  paper  is 
nearl}^  always  used.  The  cheeses  wrapped  in  tin  foil  very  commonly 
develop  stronger  flavors  and  softer  texture  than  those  wrapped  in 
paper.  The  time  of  wrapping  affects  the  kind  of  cheese  produced, 
and  the  intensity  of  the  flavor  can  be  partly  regulated  in  this  way. 
If  a  cheese  with  a  strong  flavor  is  desired,  the  wrapping  must  be 


18  DiREOTiONS    FOR   MAKING    CAMEMBERT    CHEESE. 

done  when  the  cheese  is  only  slightl}'  covered  with  the  white  mold. 
The  wrapping  checks  the  growth  of  the  latter  and  promotes  a  more 
rapid  development  of  the  other  mold,  Oidium  lactis.  On  the  other 
hand,  a  mild  flavor  can  be  obtained  by  wrapping  the  cheese  after  the 
growth  of  mold  has  become  luxuriant  and  has  turned  blue. 

After  being  wrapped  the  cheeses  are  often  put  in  small,  round 
boxes,  which  they  fit  tightly  and  in  which  they  are  later  shipped  to 
market.  These  boxes  help  to  maintain  the  shape  of  the  cheeses, 
which  become  quite  soft  during  ripening.  At  the  end  of  the  second 
week  the  cheeses  are  transferred  to  the  second  ripening  room,  where 
they  remain  until  they  are  ready  for  shipment,  or,  if  desired,  until 
they  are  fully  ripe.  During  the  third  week  the  ripening  proceeds 
rapidl}^  and  the  cheeses  become  one-half  to  two-thirds  ripe.  On  the 
surface  slimy,  reddish  spots  appear,  and  the  cheese  begins  to  give  oflf 
a  characteristic  Gamembert  odor.  Between  the  third  and  the  fourth 
week  the  hard  curd  in  the  center  usuall}'^  disappears,  and  the  cheese 
has  a  creamy,  waxlike  texture.  The  delicious  flavor  found  in  all 
Camembert  cheeses  is  now  evident.  A  little  hard  curd  may  still  be 
found  in  the  center  of  the  cheese,  but  this  will  disappear  if  given  time. 

FACTORY   METHODS. 

In  factory  practice  in  France  and  also  where  these  cheeses  are  now 
made  in  America  they  are  wrapped  and  put  into  boxes  as  soon  as  the 
covering  of  mold  is  well  started.  This  is  when  they  are  about  two 
weeks  old.  Instead  of  ripening  further  in  the  factory,  they  commonly 
are  sent  to  market  at  once.  Further  ripening  thus  becomes  a  matter 
for  the  dealer.  Although  this  is  the  common  practice  in  France, 
some  factories  ripen  the  cheese  quite  fully  to  supply  a  special  trade. 
In  other  cases  dealers  establish  cellars,  where  the  cheeses  are  taken 
out  of  the  boxes,  are  unwrapped,  and  are  ripened  completely  on 
shelves  before  selling.  Others  allow  them  to  ripen  as  they  ma}^  in 
the  boxes.  It  seems  desirable  to  recommend  that  where  domestic  fac- 
tories are  supplying  our  own  market,  cheeses  be  ripened  far  enough 
to  guarantee  good  results  before  they  are  sent  out  of  the  factory. 

VARIOUS  DEFECTS  OF  CHEESE. 

Gassy  curd. — In  the  making  of  Camembert  cheese,  as  in  making  any 
other  kind,  numerous  difliculties  are  encountered.  One  of  the  most 
common  troubles  is  that  arising  from  gassy  curd.  (Fig.  10.)  In  this 
case  the  fault  generally  lies  in  the  milk,  being  due  to  gas-producing 
bacteria.  No  way  has  been  found  in  which  this  difficulty  can  be 
absolutely  avoided,  but  it  may  be  partly  remedied  by  increasing  the 
amount  of  good  lactic  starter  and  the  development  of  higher  acidity 


VARIOUS    DEFECTS    OF    CHEESE. 


19 


before  setting,  which  will  in  time  overpower  the  gas-producing  organ- 
isms. If  the  curd  is  kept  at  a  low  temperature  after  dipping,  the 
growth  of  these  gassy  organisms  is  checko<l  to  some  extent.  The  gas 
can  not  always  be  detected  in  the  fresh  curd,  but  sometimes  develops 
later,  and  if  it  does  the  cheese  very  seldom  turns  out  satisfactoril}'. 

Yeast. — Another  difficulty  is  caused  by  yeast.  The  cheeses  often 
become  covered  with  yeast  in  the  making  room,  although  sometimes 
the  yeast  makes  its  appearance  after  the  cheeses  have  been  taken  to 
the  ripening  room.     The  surface  of  such  cheeses  becomes  slimy  and 


Fig.  10.— Gassy  curd. 


sticky,  causing  the  cheeses  to  stick  to  the  hoards,  so  that  when  they 
are  turned  a  thin  skin  is  torn  off.  In  such  cases  it  is  difficult  to 
obtain  a  good  growth  of  mold,  for  the  latter  is  pulled  off  with  the  thin 
film  of  yeast,  the  cheese  does  not  ripen  properl}',  and  it  often  has  a 
strong,  bad  flavor. 

Molds. — Contamination  from  the  other  varieties  of  mold  causes  con- 
siderable trouble.  If  the  cheeses  contain  spots  of  green  or  brown 
mold,  or  if  a  long,  fuzzy  mold,  sometimes  with  black  tops  (Mucors), 
appears,  the  Camembert  mold  can  not  grow  properly,  and  the  result 


20  DIRECTIONS   FOR   MAKING    CaMEMBERT   CHEESE. 

is  often  a  bitter  cheese  or  one  with  other  undesirable  flavors.  The 
Camembert  mold  will  sometimes  grow  over  and  cover  the  green  and 
other  molds,  but  this  does  not  prevent  them  from  producing  an 
objectionable  flavor. 

When  such  infection  from  foreign  molds  occurs,  the  whole  equip- 
ment should  be  sterilized,  and  if  possible  the  walls  and  floors  of  the 
making  as  well  as  the  ripening  rooms  should  be  cleaned  and  white- 
washed. 

Dry  cheese. — The  drying  out  of  cheese  is  caused  by  lack  of  moisture 
in  the  ripening  rooms,  or  by  too  rapid  draining  of  the  curd.  Such 
cheeses  can  often  be  saved,  if  the  drying  out  has  not  proceeded  too 
far,  by  wrapping  them  tightly  in  tin  foil. 

Wet  cheese. — A  defect  just  the  opposite  of  the  last  is  found  in  wet 
cheeses.  It  is  caused  by  too  low  a  temperature  of  the  making  room, 
as  well  as  by  too  low  a  degree  of  acidity  of  the  milk,  both  of  which 
retard  the  draining  of  the  cheese.  It  may  also  be  caused  by  too  high 
a  degree  of  moisture  in  the  ripening  rooms. 

The  ripening  of  such  cheeses  is  more  in  the  nature  of  a  liquefac- 
tion, and  the  interior  becomes  so  soft  that  it  would  run  out  if  the 
cheese  were  not  kept  in  a  box.  There  is  no  hope  for  such  cheeses,  as 
the  flavor  and  texture  will  never  be  satisfactory. 

Mites. — ^Serious  damage  is  done  to  cheeses  by  the  cheese  mite,  a 
small  insect  scarcely  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  These  mites  crawl  all 
over  the  cheese  and  eat  up  or  destroy  the  mold,  so  that  the  cheese 
will  not  ripen  properly  and  is  practically  ruined.  The  only  remedy 
in  such  cases  is  the  thorough  disinfection  of  the  whole  plant. 

Skippers. — Another  enemy  of  the  cheese  is  the  cheese  skipper — the 
larva  of  a  small  fly.  The  flies  lay  their  eggs  on  the  cheese,  and  these 
hatch  out  in  a  short  time.  The  skippers  remain  on  the  surface  and 
can  be  scraped  off,  but  not  without  spoiling  the  appearance  of  the 
cheese  and  possibly  leaving  unhatched  eggs.  Such  cheeses  can  not 
be  sold  and  are  practically  lost. 

ESTIMATED   EQUIPMENT   FOR  A   FACTORY. 

The  estimated  equipment  for  a  factory  using  about  1,000  pounds  of 
milk  per  day  is  indicated  below.  Before  building  such  a  plant,  how- 
ever, it  is  always  desirable  to  visit  some  dairy  establishment  where 
the  essential  equipment  would  be  as  nearly  comparable  to  that  needed 
as  possible.  This  need  not  necessarily  be  a  Camembert-cheese  fac- 
tory. Any  properly  equipped  dairy  establishment  will  give  ideas  as 
to  the  arrangement  of  steam  and  water  pipes,  vats,  etc. 

In  addition  to  this  ordinary  creamery  equipment  a  Camembert- 
cheese  factory  requires  its  own  special  apparatus. 


EQUIPMENT  ¥OR  A  FACTORY.  21 

Calculated  for  1,000  pounds  of  milk,  which  will  produce  250  cheeses, 
this  will  require  for  the  making  room : 

260  high  hoops.  ^ 

500  low  hoops. 

150  draining  boards  (if  used  in  making  room  only). 

150  mats. 

Draining  table  to  accommodate  250  cheeses  (42  square  feet  of 
surface). 

Shelf  room  enough  to  accommodate  250  cheeses  on  the  second 
day  of  draining. 
Vats  and  draining  tables  should  be  so  arranged  as  to  minimize  the 
labor  of  dipping.  The  two  ripening  rooms  must  be  large  enough  to 
accommodate  the  entire  output  for  about  twenty  days,  i.  e.,  5,000 
cheeses.  If  the  cheeses  are  kept  on  boards  such  as  are  used  in  the 
making  room,  this  would  require  about  500  boards  in  constant  use. 
These  would  occupy  700  running  feet  of  shelving.  The  shelves  should 
be  about  5  inches  apart.  A  rough  calculation  will  show  that  a  total 
curing  space  of  14  by  14  by  8  feet  would  be  large  enough  to  accom- 
modate all  the  cheeses.  The  arrangement  of  shelving  is  a  matter  of 
economical  utilization  of  all  the  available  space.  Aisles  between  the 
shelves  should  be  at  least  3  feet  wide  to  give  sufficient  room  to  do  the 
necessary  work.  It  probably  would  require  a  maker  and  one  helper 
to  run  such  a  factory. 


University  of  Caiifomia 

SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LiBRARY  FACILITY 

405  Hilgard  Avenue,  Los  Angeles,  CA  90024-1388 

Return  this  material  to  the  lit>rary 

from  wtiicli  it  was  borrowed. 


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UC  SOUTHERN  REGIONAL  LIBRAHY  FAOUTY 


A     001  083  195     6 


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